Modification of Dolphin Jazz for AP

27 August 2004

These are the basic instructions for simple installation of the Dolphin Jazz camera for AP work.

This camera is sold under various names: Aiptek Pocketcam X, Aiptek Slimcam 3200, and others. In Canada it has been reported as the Mercury. See this rcgroups thread for details.

There are more radical uses of this camera that include the complete removal of the case and the construction of a lighter mounting.

Important Note

Dolphin Key Statistics

Original Weight without batteries 85gms
Power consumption @2.8V 270mA
Power consumption @3.6V 200mA
Power consumption @4.8V 170mA
Power down mode after 1 minute
Power off after 3 minute

Image Quality

This set of images provide a comparisons between a Pentax Optio S4, Kodak DC290, Aiptek 1.3M and Dolphin Jazz. Click on the images to see the full size images, as obtained directly from the camera.

The Aiptek and Dolphin Jazz are fixed focal length, with the Pentax and Kodak shots the zoom was set to obtain the same field of view as the Jazz.

DescriptionPentax Optio S4 2304x1728 Kodak DC290 1792x1200 Aiptek 1.3M 1248x960Dolphin Jazz 1600x1200
Bright Sunshine, Pre Modifications (ground level) No Image No Image No Image
Bright Sunshine, Pre Modifications (ground level) No Image No Image No Image
Overcast Conditions (ground level) No Image No Image
Generally Sunny Conditions (ground level) No Image
Cloudy city shots(ground level) No Image No Image
Early morning streetscape (Jazz modified) No Image
Early morning streetscape (Jazz modified) No Image
Afternoon city shots (Jazz modified) No Image
Afternoon city shots (Jazz modified) No Image
Far panorama (Jazz modified)

Supplying BEC power to the Dolphin

The Dolphin has an internal power supply regulator that supplies 3.2V power to the camera. This regulator is functional when supplying power via the USB connector and also via the battery connectors. The supply contains a voltage step-up facility, although the supply appears to cutoff with input voltages under about 2.5V.

Measurements of the supply voltages to the SD card, and also various points within the camera show 3.2V under all conditions.

A number of users have been running the camera directly from the BEC 5V supply without any apparent harm. Given the internal power supply arrangements of this camera this would appear to be the most power efficient connection method. Note that the camera draws approximately 170mA at 5V from the supply when the camera and LCD are active. Care needs to be taken to ensure that the BEC is not overloaded by the camera and servo load of the aircraft.

Shutter trigger signal

The shutter trigger signal is active low and needs to be driven by an open-collector, or diode protected, active low signal.

The trigger signal is normally at 3.2V powered from the internally regulated supply. It should be pulled to ground (the battery -ve input) to take a picture.

You will need

To undertake these modifications you will need the following:

Procedure

The following procedure will enable you to prepare the camera for simple AP work.

Step   Description
Before you start

Before you open up your camera take a number of reference photos and store them away. You will need these photos later to ensure that you have not disturbed the focus of the camera.

Try and shoot photos in good lighting conditions, also ensure that there are distant objects to check for focus.

Ideally you need to have objects in the various corners and sides of the image, not just in the centre area.

1

Locate the four small screws that hold the case together. There are two on the top of the camera, one on the bottom, and one inside the battery cover.

Remove these screws.

Note:If you are worried about scratching the LCD panel then leave the protective plastic in place until you have finished this procedure.

2

Cut the serial number label down the middle to allow the case parts to separate. This voids your warranty.

Open the battery compartment door and starting at the USB connector end and moving to the battery cover gently remove the back cover.

Ensure that the LCD display separates from the plastic case. It is connectecd to the main circuit board by a short flexable circuit board.

Completely remove the back cover.

3

Ensure that the focus setting is in the 'mountain and people' position - this is important later.

Hold the blue strip in your right hand and using your left hand gently pull the front cover away from the camera.

There are some locking tabs on the top of the blue strip that you need to ease the case over.

Completely remove the front cover.

4

Unscrew the weight and discard this.

You have just saved yourself 6 gms.

5

You may elect to remove the sliding lens cover.

This will save you another 3-4gms. However, it will also leave you some holes in the front of the case. You can cover the holes with tape to protect the inside of the camera.

To do this unscrew the two screws holding the lens cover on. Remove the black plastic, the spring, and the sliding cover from the front of the case.

Solder the switch contacts together so that the camera sees the cover as 'open'.

Even if you are not going to remove the sliding lens cover you still may want to solder the switch contacts together. This will stop the camera powering down mid-flight if the cover moves.

6

Remove the blue band.

First remove the small screw that is securing the band.

Start on the bottom of the camera and loosen the band, it will come away easily.

Keep your fingers away from the flash unit area.

7

Attach the power supply and camera trigger signals to the places indicated. Make sure that you cover the camera lens while soldering to the battery terminals to ensure that you do not get anything splattering into the lens.

Do not play with the focus ring on the camera. If it is rotated clockwise past the 'mountains and people' setting the entire lens will pop off - this exposes the CMOS sensor array. The lens can be put back on by pushing down and rotating back to the original position - however this may result in problems with the focus.

8

Feed the wires out through the battery case.

Focus 1

Now is your opportunity to adjust the focus. My camera had an out of focus area down the right hand side of the image. I corrected this by placing a balsa shim under the side of the lens assembly.

The lens will move slight from side to side and up and down. If you have a focus problem then take a series of images while applying slight pressure to the side of the lens. This will allow you to determine which way the lens needs to move to correct the focus problem.

I placed the shim by rotating the lens so that it popped off and then placing the balsa on top of the metal spring and replacing the lens. Note: take great care not to damage, or get junk in, the CMOS sensor.

To get the lens assembly off take a small wooden implement, such as a sturdy toothpick or a bamboo skewer and pry the plastic detent arm away from the lens barrel. (Use wood as you may damage the electronics if a metal object is used and you inadvertently let it slip). Then press down lightly on the lens barrel and rotate it clockwise. It will hit a stop at which point you can lift the assembly clear of the mount.

Focus2

There is some trial and error in getting this correct. Eventually I got the image focus to an acceptable point.

The image on the left shows a small section from the top right hand corner of the image before and after the adjustment.

9

Start to reassemble the camera, put the blue band back on again. Take care to fit the switches back correctly.

Replace the small screw.

Then put the camera front on, make sure that the focus control is in the 'mountains and people' position. Note: if you have adjusted the focus (for example using balsa shims) you may wish to remove the focus control from the camera. This will stop it getting accidentally moved and destroying your adjusted focus setting.

Clean the LCD display with a soft cloth and put the back of the camera on.

Replace the four screws.

10

File a slot in the end of the battery door to let the wires out, then close the battery door.

11

Connect your electronic switch to the wires.

12

Now you should retest the focus and lens assembly by taking some more photos and comparing them to your original shots.

You can take these photos using the switch to test that it is all working correctly.

13

Mount the camera.

If you want to use the tripod screw thread as part of the mounting system the required bolt is 1/4" x 20. You can use cutdown nylon wing bolts from Great Planes (P/N GPMQ4402).